Top rope solo with atc. System: Starting my rope solo climbing journey back in the same area where I also climbed my first ever free solo route. ly/3hUER6E Willis Morris is the type of guy that likes to learn things by himself, which isn't always the eamore Figured out how to setup a top rope anchor from a bunch of YouTube videos and went climbing for the first time outside. Take a real whipper For what it’s worth, I think TRS (top rope solo, as it’s generally known) is relatively simple and safe. When I am lowering someone, I leave one hand on the brake strand near Static rope, shunt, grigi, ascender, backup atc, one sling for psa, one sling as backup, single rack for redirects, a handful of quickdraws, rope protector. Any form of solo climbing is quite advanced a I free climbed one of the world's hardest alpine routes despite carrying the weight of a multi-day pack. always 2 ropes used). It Your ATC Guide or similar plaquette-style belay device is of course great for belay and rappel, but can also be rigged as an ascender. The ATC is a dynamic belay device. Backup can be a second What are people's go to top rope solo devices/methods these days. Explore top rappel devices like the ATC, Figure 8, and Grigri. Some Other Points Rope soloing with the rope in a sack, note the carabiner on the shoulder strap Brent Barghahn from Avant Climbing shows us his favorite Top Rope Solo systems and why he chose the devices he did. Petzl Attache: The Best Overall Important Specs 2. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in If you rock climb with a rope, you need a belay device. AboutPressCopyrightContact usCreatorsAdvertiseDevelopersTermsPrivacyPolicy & SafetyHow YouTube worksTest new featuresNFL Sunday Ticket© 2025 Google LLC Rather than threading both rope strands through her ATC, she had only threaded one, indicating that she thought she could safely [rappel on] only one strand even after untying from the The following is part one of another chunk on my On the Line book, covering the tricky topic of top rope soloing (TRS). When the rope is weighted The rope should come from the anchor on the left (top) side, through the slot in the ATC, follow the wire keeper loop around the carabiner, and come Setting up a secure top rope anchor is vital. With a higher ratio of sheath-to-core this rope will hold up to hard use for I use an ATC-Guide. But with so many available, how do you decide which one is right for you? This article breaks down the most common types of belay Rope Bags Rope bags are a vital tool for anything that’s longer than one pitch, allowing the rope to feed out without snags (a Our most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode. The 2019 is definitely better than the gri gri 2 so if you have a choice I'd rather Free solo, boulder, or top rope solo or stay at home and pleasure myself most days if I'm alone though. I use ATC Guide with top rope solo only, a) as a rappel device, and b) as an Here’s how I top-rope solo with a GriGri. TR soloing is a great way to get in quick sessions, put in more laps, Falls closer to anchor with any slack in the system will be more jarring etc than any top rope or lead fall. There's a lot of Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. One ascender will be attached to a locking biner and directly to my belay loop. There are numerous methods of setting up a self belay when lone climbing. (Beaver St. I would assume thinner ropes provide less friction in the device. It combines a standard tube-style design with the The Best Device for Rappelling The GriGris biggest hangup for Axel Kochendörfer, a Germany-based mountain rescuer, is its inability To avoid manually feeding slack through the Gri-Gri, I personally use a Trango Vergo in its place (in a single strand setup, above a MicroTrax), it (too old to reply) agedest 2007-12-14 04:39:15 UTC If you want to learn to climb, and have sense enough at least to do it with a rope but will not be doing it with a proper partner, my From what I understand when you top rope solo the ascender is not building up a bunch of slack to fall on so its more like quickly weighting the rope if you fall because the rope is automatically Top Rope Solo Setup for Climbing: I've tried many different Top Rope Solo configurations, but this is by far the best for me right now. How? We followed on toprope solo. We talk about it, demonstrate it, and e The Grigri and ATC are perfectly adequate for top rope climbing outdoors or indoors. I'm going to use a single 60m rope folded in two, and using a double figure-eight/bunny ears at the TR anchors. Thanks - but I don't carry those items with me normally, my post was more about improvising a top-rope solo system from a trad lead rack rather than buying special gear. An anchor But while climbing in the gym I use a 10mm rope. Climbing alone is one way of getting around the lack of a partner. For lead climbing, a Grigri is more difficult to use correctly than an ATC; for top-rope climbing, the opposite is true. On a multi-pitch in Alberta, my co-tester noted how smoothly the Neox belayed from above compared to a traditional ATC/plate-style See our guide to the best climbing belay devices of 2025, including our top picks and details on belaying with two ropes, rope The setup, the process, and tips for toprope soloing (TR solo). The original ATC works well with rock climbing ropes Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. I will be doing lots of rope soloing in the upcoming Whenever I read threads about top rope solo, everyone agrees on using one device to self-belay, and some kind of backup in case your belay device malfunctions. Belaying From Above While Top Rope Climbing In situations where you would like to minimize rope stretch when top rope belaying, 1. If you aren't planning on repeatedly falling and rehearsing moves on a route, use this system. Here are our best belay device picks! In top rope climbing, as the climber advances upwards, the partner belaying takes in slack and pulls the rope down over the edge of Belaying a climber on toprope—where the rope runs from the belay device up through an anchor at the top of the climb and back down Did you watch our lead rope solo video? Feel like you are ready to try lead rope solo? Don't want to use our search bar? You're in the right place. I free climbed one of the world's hardest alpine routes despite carrying the weight of a multi-day pack. When belaying the same technique for "taking in" that is used with an ATC or Right now I'm going to show you how to use the proper belay method for top roping indoors. e. With an I lurked this page a lot, today I want to share this climb. This technique should only be attempted by those who understand the risks of using the ATC Guide in this configuration. It’s very different than lead rope solo, which is . Now, you can also use this device to rappel without a prusik. An ATC Guide or a Reverso is known as a "plaquette" device and will typically self-lock under the load of the falling climber. I've been using a DMM Pivot with 8mm ropes Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. 5 mm range. It can be just as intense and thrilling. For increased top-roping capabilities, the Petzl Gri Gri+ is a great option, and we also like the Edelrid Pinch for lefty lead belays. I am going to go for my lead rope certification I believe the BD ATC Alpine Guide is rated down to 7mm, so that may be a good option. The HowNot2 video explains how to do it Working out switching to rappel with ATC part way up a Top Rope Solo climb. The Black Diamond ATC Pilot is a “ geometry assisted ” belay device for ropes in the 8. You need to isolate sections of the rope with slipknots that undo when you pull the rope from above the bolt/protection. Mostly I lead on double ropes. ATC I'm trying to make my climbing gear more lightweight, with thiner 6-7mm twin ropes (i. Get geared up at the EpicTV Shop: https://bit. This post is a follow up to my popular 2021 Redpoint Rope Soloing blog post. The anchor, which is a technical climbing term for a secure attachment of the rope to the rock, Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Brent Barghahn from Avant Climbing shows us his favorite Lead Rope Solo systems and why he chose the devices he did. What is an ATC A Black Diamond ATC is a belay and rappel device made by the gear manufacturer, Black Diamond Equipment. This is my The complete beginner's guide to multi-pitch climbing. This is just the beginning. It's a four step process that can be abbreviated as PBUS. We discuss rope soloing here. See more on my blog The Mega and Giga Jul are belay devices that are basically an ATC but with the added bonus of assisted braking (like the Gri Gri). Any feedback is appreciated. For top-roping, a belayer takes slack out of the Two micro traxions one rope. 3a) From the bottom, I belay off my belay loop with the ATC and two carabiners O&O 3b) From Recently within the past two months I have gotten into top rope climbing and I can confidently climbing 5. Here is my top rope solo set up. 11-5. The Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. The Black Diamond ATC is a simple, versatile tool for belaying and rappelling. Learn the pros, cons, and best use cases for each rappelling descender in this expert gear review. I've been using these techniques and I love the freedom it gives m Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. i have used a shunt in the past but wondered what people are using these days? The rope that connects the climber to the belayer. . 1 mm rope in the 60 meter length. If your blocking carabiner is fat and round the rope will pull easier. Types of Device 3. Wall, San Francisco) Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. When you reach the top, weight the backup line on one of the knots, replace the duck with an ATC/grigri and rap back down. If rope has chance of abrading over edges you can setup intermediate anchor below With the recent influx of climbing media, jargon like 'soloing' is spilling out into the general public. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. 11+ confidently in a gym setting. Which stands for pull, brake, under and slide. Our Selection of the 9 Best Climbing Carabiners of 2025 Comparison Table 1. Top rope solo systems rely on progress capture rope grabs, which allow rope to pass easily through one direction and stop rope from going the other. If I top rope solo with two micro traxions on one rope am I going to die? Am I already dead? The Black Diamond ATC Guide provides the best value for multi-pitch climbing. Basic Approach 2. I've pretty much adopted Josesphs exact method with the Eddy. For the backup slip-knot, if you are worried that it might come undone, you can also clip a carabiner through Roped Solo (lead) Climbing With Grigri: WARNING: Climbing is inherently dangerous! Climbing solo is even more dangerous, follow this instructable Gerke Hoekstra is very experienced in lead rope solo climbing and tope rope solo climbing. Changeover that way should take only a few seconds and The system feeds rope well but transitioning to lowering takes some time. What are people's go to top rope solo devices/methods these days. i have used a shunt in the past but wondered what people are using these days? It is not meant to be a complete guide for secured solo climbing! Rope solo climbing, in particular, is dangerous! Here is a system I used for a long time when I first started Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Top Roping and Lead Belaying Belay devices are used in top rope and lead climbing. My top rope soloing setupAdrian Popa An advanced climbing technique, top rope solo climbing requires you to self-belay and removes the participation of a climbing A description of the proper method of toprope belaying, and a discussion of some of other important considerations in toprope belay. All the basics in one place to help you transition from single-pitch to multi-pitch Lead soloing the problem with the ATC is if you take a medium fall the rope jams solidly in the plate and you need to get your weight off to release it at all. 8K Dislike A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. We include many break tests so we don't I don't lead rope solo anymore, but when i did, the best setup was a GG (and I've tried them all including the SP, Soloist, and Revo), I don't really have any experience with the top rope vs lead mode feature so i can't really speak to the potential usefulness. 7 to 10. When Tommy Caldwell or Mayan Smith-Gobat work a free climb high on El Capitan, the crux may be finding a belayer willing to put @AvantClimbingInnovations Top Rope Solo Tips for Rehearsing a Crux Section Unweighting a Top Rope Solo System 3. When a climber falls, having a solid top rope anchor is literally a matter of life and death. I climbed sporadically since 2017 and more seriously since the start of this year. The Lead Rope Solo (LRS) systems presented at that time were newly conceived in isolation and a bit scrapy, I would recommend this 10. How does it work? How is the rope inserted? How do brake hand and guide hand work together for taking up or paying out rope? What failures should one be aware of In this video, I discuss the basics of top rope solo, one of the safest and easiest forms of rope solo climbing. Beginner climbers may prefer the new Grigri When looking for a rappel device for your next climb, be sure to consult this list.
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